Wednesday, September 9, 2026

Cooperman Sticks: Gone for good?

Cooperman Drum Company has been out of sticks for months, with no expected resupply date.

So today, I was surprised to learn that Nick Petrella, whose concert models have been made by Cooperman for years, is now having his sticks produced by Rohema of Germany. 

Cooperman previously offered Petrella's signature sticks, models 5 and 10, in persimmon and hickory, and very occasionally in rosewood. They were popular with concert percussionists. (The Cooperman #10 has long been one of my favorite concert sticks; I currently own three sets in hickory.)
Rosewood production ended with CITES restrictions on harvesting and importing rosewood.
Persimmon sticks ceased being available when cured persimmon stocks became scarce; Cooperman and Reamer both switched to offering their models in hickory only over a year ago. Now, Cooperman doesn't appear able to keep making even hickory sticks because of issues in sourcing quality hickory stocks, an issue that may grow with the acceleration of climate change.

Enter Rohema, a German company that has been making drum sticks for a long time. Their sticks were mostly available in Europe, with limited importing to the US. Steve Weiss announced this week that they now stock the new Nick Petrella signature models from Rohema, modified versions of his old Cooperman models # 5 and 10, in "laminated wood". Rohema hasn't revealed what wood is being laminated to produce its sticks. Birch has long been a choice for lamination, but produced much heavier sticks. 

Comparing the Coopermans with the new Rohemas, there are some interesting modifications. Read the dimensions offered for each maker and each model, and you'll see that the new Model NP5 is actually offered in a slightly larger diameter than the Cooperman version, while the new Model NP10 comes with a longer taper, a narrower neck and a slightly larger tip than found on the Cooperman version.

Cooperman Nick Petrella #5


 

 


 

 

 

Rohema Nick Petrella NP5



 

 

 

 

 




Cooperman Nick Petrella Model 10














Rohema Nick Petrella NP10




















First-quality Cooperman sticks last sold for $39/pair. The new Rohema versions are selling at Steve Weiss for $28-29/pair. I was flush from some recent pad sales and so intrigued by this development that I took a chance and ordered one pair each of the new sticks. They should be here next week.

Friday, September 4, 2026

Vintage Corner: Quiet Tone practice pads, from the early days

According to verbal history, Henry Adler designed the Quiet Tone practice in the 1960s as a way to practice drumming quietly.
It could rest on a tabletop or on top of a drum, and worked as advertised. 
The earliest version featured a plain Mylar plastic head and rim laid over a muting base (made of some kind of fiberboard that, contrary to rumor did not contain any asbestos). The earliest version of the QT pad had very primitive tension that was difficult to work with and did not offer much of a tuning range. 

The patent for the design was actually awarded to Merton Glick and Joseph Mancari in 1969. I am still researching the Henry Adler connection to see if he was involved in any way, but so far I can find nothing.

Below: drawings from the patent application:

The earliest versions of the QT pad, before the patent was awarded, are extremely scarce and very hard to find today. So imagine my surprise when I found listings for two of them, at a surprisingly low price for each. Of course, I snapped them both up.

14" pad, meant to fit on top of a snare drum:

 


And the 13" size, meant to fit on top of a tom or a piccolo snare drum:










As you can see from the blow-ups below, the tensioning mechanism was far more primitive on this earliest version, which used a simple nut and bolt design. This would be replaced later by a drum tension rod, which provided more adjustability.



While this earliest tuning mechanism was too primitive for real world applications, having examples in my collection makes it easier for me to see and show the full development of an important piece of drum pad history, and I'm glad to have them.

Happy drumming.

Friday, August 28, 2026

There were homemade practice pads before any other. There still are.

The first US patent for a drum practice pad was granted in 1920 to Henry Bower, a drummer and teacher who created a “drum practice device” so that drummers could practice anywhere without having to lug a drum along. There was no claim made about the practice device being quieter than an actual drum, only more portable; Bower’s design utilized a wood base, with a wool batting as a middle layer and topped by a piece of hard fiberboard, the same as was used for drum cases (and which was still used for drum cases, up through the late 1980s, when hard plastics improved enough to supplant fiberboard). The result was a practice pad with a very hard, articulate response and tone which was barely muted at all by the wool batting. Bower then licensed his design to a drum shop in Los Angeles, which then produced the pads in quantity and had distribution rights.

But drummers had made their own pads for private use before Bower got his patent. These homemade pads were essentially one-offs, made by the drummer for his personal use. 

A number of working drummers continued to make and use their own practice pads after mass-produced pads became widely available. Why? There’s no single definite reason. The pads in the first photo below represent different decades in modern drum history, from the 1950s into the early 1980s, when mass-produced practice pads were plentiful and relatively inexpensive. However, most of the mass-produced pads during this time were made with a built-in tilt, rather than flat. (Remo’s tunable pads even came with a slight tilt built into the design, which didn’t really go away until the 1990s. They also cost more than the simple rubber-on-wood pads did.)

Most drummers were still being taught traditional grip up through the late 1970s, and drums were still carried on the march at a tilt (using a webbed shoulder sling and a leg rest) until the early 1980s, when the modern drum corps movement took off. West Coast drum corps such as the Santa Clara Vanguard taught their snare drummers to use matched grip and carried their snare drums as parallel to the ground as possible. These corps inspired and spearheaded development of sturdier drum carriers with adjustable tilt so that players using matched grip didn’t have to wear a shoulder sling. By the late 1980s, more commercially-made pads were being made flat to accommodate matched grip players. 

(Incidentally, when I began learning snare drum in 1973 I was taught traditional grip. I didn’t learn matched grip until I began high school and the section leader insisted on everyone using matched grip for the sake of uniformity. I learned to use both, but whenever I sat behind a drum kit I tilted my snare drum and used traditional grip. I still play that way today, and my practice pad station at home utilizes a tilted platform so I can use flat pads on it with traditional grip. I’m just stubborn, I guess.)

Photo, L to R:

Homemade pads made and used by Jim Dinella, Don Wunn and Norman Grossman. 








The Don Wunn pad (center) is probably a 1950s Leedy pad that was refurbished with a replacement base of plywood and the rubber top reattached. Don Wunn ran a drum shop in Portland, Oregon in the 1950s, and sold the business in the early 1960s.

Jim Dinella was a music educator and professional drummer who wrote articles for a modern Drummer magazine and was a historian for the Percussive Arts Society. His pad was probably made in the 1970s and was obtained from his estate.

Normal Grossman ran a drum shop in New York City and authored several drum methods, while also maintaining a full private studio and performing at clubs around New York. As of 2024 he was reported as living quietly in New York City. I obtained this pad from Jon Singer, who was charged with disbursing his drum equipment and instruments.

Below: a practice pad made and used by Solomon Feldman, a drummer/percussionist based in New York. Made from a plywood base (which looks like it may have once been part of a utility cable spool) with a panel of leather affixed to one side. While leather is not widely used on mass-produced practice pads today, tanned leather has continued to be a responsive playing surface for drummers.**























I continue to look for homemade pads from drummers of an earlier age. I think they’re a great example of “beausage” — something made beautiful through usage, acquiring a patina that could only come from being well-worn. And in this era of mass-produced deck being made unsustainably and shipped from overseas, these old pads carry a poignancy that I really cherish.

(** Tackle Instrument Supply offers a fancy leather pad affixed to a hardwood base. At only 6” diameter and with a retail price of $75, I t’s meant as a coffee table collectible more than a serious practice implement.)

Note: depending on the age and condition of an old homemade pad, and whether or not you intend to play on it, you *may* choose to stabilize older wood by applying a thin coat of wood hardener. Wood hardener does exactly what it says it does — it hardens the wood by filling in the wood fibers. (On furniture projects, it’s often followed up with light sanding and staining or paint.) 

Working in a well-ventilated area, tape off any areas you don’t want to touch with the liquid hardener, apply a thin coat with a small sponge brush and let dry overnight. Choosing to alter and/or play on an old wood is a personal choice that can be influenced by many factors, including the age of the pad, the fame of the drummer who made it, the scarcity of that drummer’s personal equipment and the condition of the pad before altering.

I would never alter my Bower pad! It’s over a hundred years old and extremely rare, and even in better condition I wouldn’t really want to play on it. Conversely, I did make some attempts to stabilize the Jim Dinella pad because it was newer and in relatively good condition. I added a little foam on the bottom to keep it from skidding, and I stabilized a couple of joined corners with a small amount of clear glue. Again, consider all the factors and use prudent judgment.

Happy drumming.

Tuesday, August 25, 2026

Dolly was one of us, too.

Dolly Parton, 1946 - 2026

Snare drummer, Sevier County HS, 1963
















Godspeed, Dolly. Thank you for the music and everything else.

Saturday, August 22, 2026

A deeper dive into 2B: Vintage Promark oak sticks, 1970s-90s

The 2B sticks that Promark made from oak in the 1970s and 80s are near and dear to my heart. They’re balanced so well and feel so good in the hands!

Here’s a not-so-scientific chronology.
Top to bottom, first photo:
— Mid to late 1970s
— mid 1980s
— late 1980s to early 90s















There’s not a ton of difference between the first two pairs. The tip size and shape are nearly the same, and the neck just below the pedestaled tip is 7mm in diameter. The butt end is shaped differently between the gold band pair and the mid-80s pair.
By the time we get to the third pair, the sticks are a full 2mm longer and the neck just below the pedestal measures 3mm, with a tip that is larger as well.














The diameter of the straight part of the stick (before the taper) is 14mm on all three pairs.
I don’t know why the tips and the neck got larger in the late 80s. Either it was a deliberate change in that model’s design, or perhaps it was a way to simplify stick production by bringing multiple models (2B, Rock) to the same neck size. Possibly it could have been a response to the number of players who suggested a stouter diameter to reduce breakage? I have no way of knowing.
(I do know that by the early 2000s, the shape of the 2B sticks changed again. The pedestal disappeared, the taper became almost klunky and thicker and the tip got longer and more ovalized. I’m not a fan.)
















I like to search for these older Promark sticks online and at yard and rummage sales, because in my opinion they're just so much nicer than the bland, straight sticks that Promark has been churning out since they were bought by D'Addario (which also owns Evans). 

I also have older Promark oak sticks in 1S, 2S and 3S, and while they're heavier, they are so nicely balanced that chopping with them is a delight.

Sadly, as with all vintage drums and accessories, the farther away we get from the date of production, the harder it is to find vintage items in playable condition that haven't been bought up by bigger and wealthier collectors. Time marches on.

Monday, August 17, 2026

DIY Drummer: Make it yourself. PLEASE.

These two pads just went up for sale online. The same seller is offering them on eBay for an opening bid of $65 each, and a Buy-It-Now price of $85. Shipping is extra.

A. RealFeel knockoff, made with gum rubber and solid ash base.

It's a nice enough pad, likely homemade (by the seller or someone else).
The ash base will give it a different sound than the MDF base found on the original HQ pads and their Evans successors.

The gum rubber is glued a little sloppily to the base. You can see excess glue at the edges. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't pay this much for a pad that looks slapped together, especially when I can do a neater job of it myself.

You can easily make the same pad at home for a fraction of the seller's asking price.

Gum rubber is available from Zoro, Grainger and other online industrial suppliers. A 12" x 12" square of gum rubber, 1/4" thick will set you back $18-20. The base can be cut from scrap lumber, or made with a repurposed wood cutting board, either of which might be found for anywhere from Free to around five bucks at a thrift store. A small bottle of glue or epoxy can be found at Harbor Freight for less than ten bucks. Your total shouldn't be more than around thirty bucks, depending on where you course your components.

B. Duplex knockoff, made with gum rubber and solid ash slabs.

This will end up costing even less, owing to a smaller piece of gum rubber and the fact that you can easily source scrap lumber pieces to make your own pad. Wood screws hold it all together. If you size it right, the gum rubber can be glued on top of the screw heads to hide them for a cleaner appearance.

I scored a Duplex pad exactly like this at a thrift store for five bucks. But if you want to make one, it shouldn't cost more than about $15-20, tops. Again, the seller wants a Buy-It-Now price of $85 plus shipping.

Practice pads don't have to get out of hand. Make your own, saving money and enjoying chopping on something you made yourself.

Happy drumming.

Friday, August 14, 2026

My ongoing love affair with Vintage 2B sticks

I’ve loved 2B sticks for a long time.

Like most drummers, I started out with them. They provided more of a heft than 5A, the other standard size for young drummers, but were still silencer enough to serve as a good concert stick. In the 1940s and 50s, they also served as an alternative marching stick for the youngest drummers in school and community bands.

2B models from this era up through the early 1980s offered a medium to long taper and kept more weight at the butt end, which I still prefer. I’ve found that newer 2B sticks have tended towards a much shorter, less gradual taper and more weight towards the front end of the stick, which completely changes the balance and feel.

So over time, I’ve gathered older 2B sticks. I’ve used them in community bands and for pad chopping.

The nicest pairs live in this old Promark stick bag, from the late 1970s.

This isn’t the entire collection, which also includes some older Promark oak sticks from the late 1970s and early 80s that I use and enjoy often.

L-R: Jeff Rich vintage style, 2023; Fibes, 1970’s; Slingerland Haskell Harr, 1960s; Slingerland 2B standard, 1960s; Ludwig, 1970s; Ralston (possible Japanese stencil brand), 1960s; WFL, 1940s; Mercury US (stencil brand?), 1950s.

All but the Jeff Rich are made from hickory. I believe the Rich sticks were turned from bubinga or similar, heavier wood.

The tips here tend towards more of an elongated acorn shape, which would have been good for Rudimental and concert work, and would have forced the player to be consistent with stick angles when playing rolls.

It’s good to remember that in the 1950s and earlier, most Rudimental drumming happened on drums with wooden hoops, meaning that a rim shot wouldn’t have broken the stick as easily. Sticks from this era lasted longer as a result. If they were later used on metal hoops, their age and previous use may have meant they’d break more easily, making sticks from before the early 50s harder to find intact now.

Because sticks from this era were not matched for weight or pitch at the factory, drummers had to sort through a case of the same size and company to find pairs that would match. One of my fondest memories is of visiting Captain Whizeagles music store in downtown Portland when I was a middle schooler in the mid 1970s, and Fred and Toody Cole (the owners, and also founders of the seminal band Dead Moon) were happy to let me gently tap and roll sticks on their glass counter to sort out and rubber-band pairs, for myself and for the shop. If I sorted the whole lot, they’d give me a free pair, and then they’d mark up the rest because the matching had been done for the customer. Smart! 

I continue my search for older sets of 2B sticks. If you have any to rehome, reach out and let’s talk.

Happy drumming.